Inset Inseam Pockets

I wanted to share one of my favorite ways to make pockets and add them to garments when sewing. Inseam pockets are a practical and common feature in jackets, coats, and skirts. But, because the opening of the pocket is sewn in with a more narrow seam allowance, the pockets are almost invisible in the vertical seam!

One main thing to note with this process is that the pocket pieces are stitched onto the front and back pieces of the garment fabric BEFORE we sew the side seam. Also for this example, I am going to add two inset pockets into a garment that has two side seams like a dress or a coat. 

Note with this pattern, when printed A2 size (8.5” by 11”), this would be a good size for a smaller pocket. For a generous pocket I recommend increasing the size to about 130%.

Here are the general sewing steps that I like to take when adding inset inseam pockets.

1. Cut out two pocket pieces from your main fabric.

2. Then, cut out two pocket pieces from your lining material. 

3. Sewing the sides of each pocket into the vertical seam is one of the most crucial steps. As a general rule, I like to position pockets 6 to 8 inches below the natural waist line.

1. First, align the main fabric pocket pieces to the back side seam. Right sides together. Sew together with a 3/8" (1cm) seam allowance.

1. By attaching the nice fabric to the back fabric piece, the nice fabric will show when the final pocket is opened.

2. Then, match up the lining pocket pieces to the front side seam.

1. I will often double check the alignment here to make sure that the pockets and side pieces will all match up.

3. With the right sides together, match up the lining pocket piece with the front side piece. Sew with a 3/8" (1cm) seam allowance. 

4. Press the pockets open so that it sticks out from the main body pieces. 

5. Edge stitch. (This will help the pocket not flop around when fully assembled.)

4. At this point, we are ready to sew the full side seam with our inset pocket.

1. Match up the front and back pieces, right sides together, with the two pocket pieces sticking out. 

2. Now, with the standard 5/8" (1.5cm) seam allowance, sew from the top of the side seam down to the pocket. When you reach the pocket, back stitch to reinforce the pocket opening. 

3. Continue sewing at a 5/8" (1.5 cm) around the pocket. When you get to the other pocket opening, back stitch again. 

4. Repeat with the 2nd pocket.

5. Press the side seam with the pocket pointing forward.

6. Tada! You are done!